Roxy: Static Timing

Checked points gap and static timing.  Oddly, the gap was now down to 0.3 mm where it had been 0.5 mm at the last service (Aug 2014).  Strange, but good.

Was it because I had turned the entire points plate clockwise to fix the timing issue?  I can't remember the sequence of events now.  But either way, the points gap was good and the timing was dead on.  So all good.

Roxy: Centrifugal Force

Got it into my head that I must start cleaning the oil filters regularly.  Realized the benefit of having the 2-piece clutch cover: you don't need to remove the main cover to get to the centrifugal one.  Figured I could at least clean that one.  Save the screen filter for another ambitious day.

Started with the valve clearance checks while the engine was still cold.  She was rock steady at .05mm.  Spark plug was full of carbon deposits so I just gapped a new one and replaced it.  Then I warmed up the engine and drained the oil.

I already knew that 3 of the 4 clutch cover screws were tight.  I really thought I was going to end up having to re-slot them (damaging the cover in the process).  But lo and behold, the Lisle saves the day yet again.  Knocked the first one free with one hit and that really gave me hope for the others.  The last one almost didn't want to give in, but after 4-5 whacks it came loose.  Whew.  Lucky break.

Popped the cover off (carefully) for the first time, taking pictures.  Note there are three small pieces to worry about (and don't forget the spring inside the lifter).

Then I got worried about the outer cover screws being frozen.  It would be discouraging to have gotten so close only to be stopped now.  Had to go back up to get the clutch holder and I couldn't only get one peg into place, but it was enough to hold the basket enough to get the 2 screws out.  Another lucky break.

I had to gently pry the cover itself off, but that was the last big worry.  Finally she popped out and I was in.  The gunk was nowhere near as bad as I thought, given it's been 3 years of riding without a cleaning.  I did have to scrape it off, but I didn't need to chisel it.  Job done.

Getting the lifter and cover all aligned took a little fiddling given it was the first time.  I didn't have it all lined up correctly at first and actually screwed the cover back into place a couple times without then being able to move the clutch at all.  Finally got it all working and in place.  Realized that it was easier to attach the cable to the engine mount before screwing the cover done.

Also replace the 4 inspection cover screws and both those and the 2 outer cover screws got anti-seize.

Moment of truth - started her up, let her warm a bit, then the first shift.  Nice clean click into first.  Rode up and down the garage a couple times.  Gravy.

Also did part of a tune-up:

• Checked valve clearance on the cold engine and they were both perfect.
• Changed the spark plug since it was showing a lot of deposits.
• After the oil change, did a compression test and got a nice 110.  

Roxy: Mystery Solved (Thanks, Yahoo Group)

Ah-ha, so first you set the points gap by adjusting the points themselves, then you adjust the timing by rotating the BASE PLATE. 

Clymer could have done a much better job of clarifying that point.

I had to turn the plate pretty f ar clockwise to get it to the "F" mark.  But seemed to work ok.  She started up nicely on one kick at 60 degrees (though I did start her earlier today on 3 kicks).  I'll see how a 2-day cold start goes...

Roxy: Tune Up

Did most of a tune-up on Roxy.

1. Wipe down, general inspection
2. Chain slack = 3/8"
3. Brake inspection = tightened up the rear brake
4. Check air cleaner and fuel lines
5. Spark plug
1. Gap = ok
2. Condition = black and carbon deposits
6. Valve clearance
1. Intake = ok
2. Exhaust = tightened from .003" to .002"
7. Points
1. Condition = ok
2. Gap = was 0.508 so I tightened to 0.4, but then to fix the Timing, I had to go back to 0.5
8. Static Timing
1. Was retarded (to the red mark), so I set it back to "F" mark, but that caused the points gap to open up to 0.5.  How do you reconcile that?  [edit 7/27/15: this means the points themselves are worn and should be replaced]

Skipped a few things:

• Check batt voltage
• Lube chain 

Astrid: Start and Start Again

Pulled the camshaft to do the pencil test and confirmed it's an S90 grind.  While I was at it, I also re-gapped the plug (narrowed it a bit), set the exhaust valve clearance (opened it up a bit), and set the static timing back to the mark (it was a little advanced).

Bike started with three kicks off of 6.33V, but also unfortunately found some oil leaks.

Astrid: Paper Template

Did up the paper template for the alternator timing window cover.

Astrid: Marathon

Solid four hours of quality garage time today.  Did a laundry list for Astrid run prep, pretty much everything leading up to adding oil and then doing the compression test.

• Added in all the gaskets, using 4 from the replacement kit.  
• Torqued the clutch nut, which actually turned into a bit of an ordeal, but learned 2 good tricks as a result.  
• First, realized that I had the perfect sized C-clamp to keep the clutch basket holder from moving as you apply force to the nut.  
• Second, on a brand new lock ring, you need to bend the tabs inward otherwise it's tough to fit a screwdriver behind the tab once it's tightened.
• Did a mini tune-up
• Set the valve clearance, using the yellow 3mm wrench for the first time
• Set the points gap.  Weird thing about the points gap is that since the whole thing rides on a spring, it seems tricky to use a feeler gauge to measure the space in between.
• Checked the timing, and realized after much confusion, that my homemade LED was not working because LED's don't dim.  Switched back to the incandescent bulb setup and found the timing was already dead on to the "F" mark.

These 2 gaskets were original, I'd just fallen into the habit of leaving them off.

These 4 gaskets came from the replacement kit.  I'm not 100% sure the o-ring for the oil galley is correct, but it seemed to fit and it was better than nothing.

 

 

 

The locking tab (before bending the tabs), the C-clamp setup, and a clean oil filter screen.

 

 

Roxy: Idle Problem Fixed! (sort of)

Hallelujah, she runs!  But I cheated a bit in that I just swapped out the carb with Viola's carb (labeled CS90C), which I'd already cleaned.  She started up and ran like butter.  Actually had a better, lower purring sound than with the old carb for some reason.  Idled strong for 5 minutes with no signs of hesitation, and it was a warm day so I think the running rich issue is gone.

I suppose I'd still like to figure out what's wrong with the newer carb, but first I'll have to figure out how to remove the stuck float pin.


First thing I did since the engine was cold was to check valve clearances.  Happy to see they were .002" on both intake and exhaust.  Also learned from the forum that the reason the PO probably added the breather tube was to accommodate a bigger cylinder or higher RPM.  Since there's a piston in the old parts bin from the PO, I wonder if the cylinder has been bored out.  We'll find out eventually.

Beautifully clean alternator compared to Viola's.

Then did a compression test for the first time.  Again, thrilled to see that I was getting 120 on a cold engine, especially since I was worried about an oil leak into the cylinder.  Odometer at 17,571.

Noticed there was this hole in the bottom of the muffler, though it seemed like someone put it there on purpose.  Another PO mod to increase breathing?

Also took the opportunity to switch to the new shorter filter (Visu-Filter Mini) that came in the mail today.  Much easier to squeeze between carb and petcock, and doesn't kink the line.

And finally everything installed.  Whew.  She idled and revved smoothly, but I'll have to take her on the road to really make sure everything's sorted.

S90: Vintage Oil

Is this what happens to oil after it sits for fifteen years?

CM91: First Peek at the Spark Plug

I believe this would be carbon fouling...