Added the primary gear, clutch center guide and collar. All part of auditing the big box o'clutch parts again.
They're all in fairly good nick but I realized I shouldn't gamble on the old friction disks and I only had one left of the NOS bunch I'd bought awhile back. Should invest in another lot of them...
Given Red's very heavy clutch pull, wondering if I can measure the spring rate on the big springs before installing them.
Showing posts with label Monkey Motor Build. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Monkey Motor Build. Show all posts
Saturday, August 10, 2019
Saturday, August 3, 2019
Monkey Motor: 6004 Bearing
Swapped out the sealed 6004 bearing for a new open one. For some reason, the first one in the freezer wouldn't go in clean. Maybe I hadn't quite heated the case enough or maybe it had gone in a little cocked.
Decided to use a brand new one since I'd hammered on the first one a bit to get it back out. Heated the case a little more and this time it dropped right in.
Also installed alternator and rotor and the neutral switch tested good.
Decided to use a brand new one since I'd hammered on the first one a bit to get it back out. Heated the case a little more and this time it dropped right in.
Also installed alternator and rotor and the neutral switch tested good.
Labels:
Monkey Motor Build
Friday, July 12, 2019
Monkey Motor: Shift Drum Woes
After assembling and reassembling several times, found that the whole transmission would sometimes lock up. Slowly chased it down to the top fork on the shift drum seemingly hitting a rough spot in the channel and getting a bit rough, which seemed to lead to the entire tranny locking.
But as these were the "pin" type drum forks, there was really no good way to get that damn pin out. Yahoo group no help on this one, either.
Tried sanding the channel as much as I could and stopped short of busting out the Dremel.
But then as I was playing around, I ended up removing the retaining clip, moving the fork back and forth quite a bit, then replacing the pin. And viola, suddenly the binding was gone. I think that by removing the retaining clip it allowed the pin to shift in place a bit so that it wasn't binding. Theoretically...
But in the end, was worried that it may not really have solved the problem permanently, so decided to swap it for the drum that was in the Model Motor, which had a smooth action despite having a few rust spots here and there.
That seemed to solve the shift issue, but was also finding that when I tightened down the case screws, the tranny would freeze in place from pressure.
After a long process of elimination, realized two things.
One, you need the gasket in there to account for a critical millimeter or two.
Second, the case must close flush by hand first. If you're closing any gap at all using the screws, then it's binding on something. Usually jiggling it a bit will help it close up.
As always, can't forget the 3 thrust washers: mainshaft, countershaft, and kickstart.
But as these were the "pin" type drum forks, there was really no good way to get that damn pin out. Yahoo group no help on this one, either.
Tried sanding the channel as much as I could and stopped short of busting out the Dremel.
But then as I was playing around, I ended up removing the retaining clip, moving the fork back and forth quite a bit, then replacing the pin. And viola, suddenly the binding was gone. I think that by removing the retaining clip it allowed the pin to shift in place a bit so that it wasn't binding. Theoretically...
But in the end, was worried that it may not really have solved the problem permanently, so decided to swap it for the drum that was in the Model Motor, which had a smooth action despite having a few rust spots here and there.
That seemed to solve the shift issue, but was also finding that when I tightened down the case screws, the tranny would freeze in place from pressure.
After a long process of elimination, realized two things.
One, you need the gasket in there to account for a critical millimeter or two.
Second, the case must close flush by hand first. If you're closing any gap at all using the screws, then it's binding on something. Usually jiggling it a bit will help it close up.
As always, can't forget the 3 thrust washers: mainshaft, countershaft, and kickstart.
Labels:
Monkey Motor Build,
transmission
Monday, July 8, 2019
Monkey Motor: Internals
Started on the motor proper by installing new bearings. Though I had gotten the sealed 6004 by mistake, but figured I'd drop it in for now just so I could continue working. The 6204 was correct and went in easy.
But went to install the mainshaft and it simply wouldn't fit in the recess. Closer examination showed there was some damage to it and the lip had sort of "curled" in a bit. Unsure of the right way to fix, but ended up just sanding the edge down. Didn't take much and was able to insert the shaft and it turned freely.
Close call, as that would have obviously rendered the case useless if it had been worse.
But went to install the mainshaft and it simply wouldn't fit in the recess. Closer examination showed there was some damage to it and the lip had sort of "curled" in a bit. Unsure of the right way to fix, but ended up just sanding the edge down. Didn't take much and was able to insert the shaft and it turned freely.
Close call, as that would have obviously rendered the case useless if it had been worse.
Labels:
Monkey Motor Build
Saturday, July 6, 2019
Monkey Motor: Starting
Started work on the Monkey Motor. Scraped gaskets using the new Motion Pro scraper tool, which worked pretty well. Fitted the crank.
Labels:
gaskets,
Monkey Motor Build
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)