Couldn't quite wrestle the master link off the chain and decided to leave it for another day. But at least I learned my way around the axle nut and axle adjusters.
At first I couldn't find the notches on the left side swing arm (you need to match marks on both sides so that the wheel is straight). But turns out they were just under a lot of gunk. A quick scrub with WD40 and a wire brush revealed them.
This is actually the right side markings, but you get the idea.
I also replaced the 6mm nut and washer on the adjuster bolt since they were a rusty wreck. This picture is the entire assembly, though it doesn't show the shiny new hardware.
Rusty, soiled master link. I'd pulled the clip halfway off already.
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