New toy is an infrared thermometer. Combine that with the heat gun and use it to heat up the case to install the bearing. All sounded good in theory, but wasn't sure it would work in reality. But actually everything went perfectly to plan.
Heated the case with one hand while taking the temperature with the other. Heated it up to about 215 and it didn't take very long at all. Did this on top of the stove (on a baking sheet covered with tin foil). Meanwhile had the 6004 bearing in the freezer.
As soon as it hit 215, I moved the case down to the floor (on top of plywood) and knocked the bearing into place with a 29mm socket with just a couple taps of the dead blow hammer.
Almost too easy, but job done.
Thought about removing the old bearing on the other side and installing the new one, but realized that I didn't have a socket big enough to safely knock the bigger 6204 bearing into place. Need to get about a 32mm socket or maybe a dowel of equivalent size.
Brought up the crankcase for inspection. This is the one with holes in it. Don't know why it never occurred to me before, but now I assume that the holes are a custom mod, not a different type of stock crank. Did the inspection as per Clymer's and it was all well within the wear limits.
Broke out the Tusk tools and installed the crank easily. Actually got the entire case all the way back together but then had second thoughts. Not really sure what the effect of the drilled flywheels will be on a stock setup and may not be worth the risk.
Thought about pulling the crank from the model engine and swapping it with the custom one, but honestly just too much work!
Ended by swapping our the rusted cable arm on the clutch cover with the one from the model engine. Learned something new: there's a little clip on the arm that holds it in place. Easy to miss if you don't know it's supposed to be there.
