3d Printing: Carb Displays

Finished the mounts for my carb "collection".

As of now, this includes:

1. British Amal (a matching pair)
2. Mikuni - plunger type
3. Dell'Orto from a Lambretta scooter
4. Bing
5. Solex (made by Mikuni)
6. Offset Mikuni (with the broken choke gate)
7. Offset Keihin

3d Printing: Intake Cap

Handy little intake cap, instead of trying to find a clean rag or sheet...

Run Ivy Run: Shorty Filter

Got the new K&N filter, which is not actually an air filter technically speaking.  It's from their line of Crankcase Vent Filters, which are the only ones short enough to fit in the gap in the S90, and which Roxy had been using this entire time.

This particular chrome capped model is 62-1390.

Good news was it fit perfectly, looked great, and the engine ran with no issues.

Bad news is that I confirmed there's still an overflow leak.  Will need to lower the floats.

Run Ivy Run: Leaks, K&N test

K&N learnings...

• The RU-0100 filter barely fits, but she does RUN with it
• The RU-0060 filter also barely fits, and she RUNS with that, too
• The RU-0060 filter is 75MM high - whereas Roxy's is only 62MM!!  How did I get that measurement so wrong.
• Browsing the K&N site again and stumbled on "Vent Filters" as opposed to Air Filters, and found the shorty filter which I think Roxy uses.  Will know for sure in a week...

 Carb gasket learnings...

• There was definitely gas leaking from where the bottom half meets the top.
• I drained the carb using the carb catch but this time put a thick layer of duct tape around it (worked a treat)
• Thought I'd just replace the gasket with the Keyster one, but then realized the Keyster was too small (and realized that that's probably why I cut my own in the first place).  It kept the floats from actually moving.
• Pulled the gasket from the other Keihin carb only to realize that one was also DIY
• Tried pulling the gasket from the broken Mikuni, but only half a gasket was even there
• In the end, put in the DIY gasket from the other carb only because it looked to be in slightly better shape
• Will have to check again to see if it's still leaking... 

Petcock learnings...

• Unfortunately, there seems to be a very slow but steady gas leak coming from the petcock even when fully closed
• It leaks now because it's open at the end, but if it were attached to the carb, wouldn't it stop once the carb filled?
• Though having a petcock that doesn't actually stop the flow seems pretty pointless.
• There are 2 used ones in stock, but not sure of the condition.  Or maybe just need to disassemble and check this new one.

Garage: Shelving!

New Sterilite heavy duty plastic shelving.  Why didn't I do this sooner?

Also got a pack of 25L and 50L bins that are made to fit the shelf.  Spent 3 straight days editing, re-organizing and re-packing everything.  Very, very happy with the results.

Astrid: Street Legal!

$103 to pull the CM91 out of non-op.  And perhaps share a license plate with Ivy one day...?

Run Ivy Run: Carb and Petock

Drained the carb using the new 3d printed gas catch.  A few drips coming out of the corner even though it seemed watertight in the bathroom test.

Pulled the carb (left throttle and fuel line attached) and discovered that the valve seat was just loose!  Tightened with an 8mm socket and job done!  Tested the float to make sure it was stopping the flow and then reinstalled.

Installed the petcock which was fiddly because it literally bumped up against the air box.  Used a 6x30 screw even though the stock takes a 6x16.  Poured in enough gas to confirm that the reserve and off were working.

Ran the engine and then added 2 funnels worth of oil.

Run Ivy Run: Transmission Test, Part 1

Had a somewhat ambitious plan since I had a stack of recently delivered goodies: the new GN4 Honda oil, fork oil, the RK chain, the battery...

Straight off, I discovered the carb is definitely leaking.  It had leaked before that day I'd forgotten to close the petcock.  Then when I thought it had stopped, that was really due to it being dry because the fuel line was looped on the handlebar.

With the petcock open and the engine not running, it definitely overflows.  But I figured I'd proceed with the oil change and clutch work anyway.

• I let the carb fill with gas then shut off the aux petcock.  She started easily and I ran her for 5 minutes.
• Let the oil drain directly into the measuring cup and ended up with about 575 mL.
• Took off the pegs and exhaust, then removed the cover.
• Cleaned the filter (though was really not dirty).
• Installed the 4 damper springs by simply pushing them into place (lucky that worked).
• Installed the clutch lifter (canted at 45 degrees).
• The cover slipped back on with the first try - no fiddling with the lifter.
• Got a bit stymied by installing the clutch cable when it was under tension.
• TOP TIP
• The cable should be installed on the handlebar, but dial the adjuster all the way in so that you have maximum slack at the other end.
• Make sure the cable adjuster is also tightened up all the way to allow max slack.
• Install the lower end of the cable into the clutch arm slot.
• Then... you just have to muscle the arm far enough up to slip the cable into the holder.
• Torqued the oil bolt to 17
• Added 600mL of the new GN4 oil.

 Popped open the front sprocket cover only to realize there isn't actually a front sprocket installed.  Glad to see the countershaft spinning, though.

From there, I did try moving up and down through the gears, but it was very hard to tell what was actually happening just by looking at the countershaft.

So after all that work, the test seems... inconclusive.  I think you really need it chained up to the wheel to be certain.